To: 	San Juan & Gulf Island Montgomery Group
From: 	Scott Grometer


Greetings!

I am sending this decidedly lengthy list with the hope that it might be helpful in planning and preparing for your upcoming trip.

First, let’s get some legal stuff out of the way:

This list is neither complete nor sufficient.  Your personal skills, needs, and boat type/size will determine your specific preparation, equipment, and safety/legal requirements.  The items listed reflect my personal opinions and choices, and are not a substitute for thorough research and confirmation on the part of each participant. I cannot guarantee the accuracy or currency of the information herein.

While I fully anticipate a spirit of mutual assistance and support during this trip, it is important to recognize that each participant is entirely responsible for his or her own safety, adherence to laws and regulations, proper vessel preparation and operation, and for any financial, property, environmental, or other damages he or she incurs/causes during, or as a result of, this trip.

Neither Larry Yake nor Scott Grometer are assuming any roles or responsibilities as ‘group leaders’ for this trip, and as such are not responsible for the safety of persons or property of those in attendance, or for any damages incurred by, or to, any of the participants involved.  Decisions affecting the safety and prudence of any aspect of this trip, including judgments as to the safety of any itinerary, routing, departure times, weather, or other any other factors, are the sole responsibility of each participant.

Decisions arrived at by a group of participants might nonetheless prove beyond the safe ability of an individual and/or their vessel, and it is the responsibility of each individual to make safe and prudent judgments, clearly identify any concerns, and/or take alternative actions or courses as they see fit.

I apologize that this need be stated so bluntly.   If you have any questions or concerns regarding the above, please contact Larry or Scott well in advance of departure.

OK, now that we all understand and agree to this, I am sure that we will have a great trip and all look forward to supporting each other in any way possible, yes?  In that spirit, let’s move on to more red tape:

Documents:

Here is a short list of some documents you will need/might want for this trip:

US Passport (or other Passport if you are not a US Citizen):
You might have heard the announcements last week that US citizens returning to the US from either Canada or Mexico will now have to show a valid US Passport as identification upon customs clearance/re-entry to the United States.  Passports have been a kind of defacto requirement for vessels returning to US waters for some time.  I have been witness to several heated exchanges between US Customs officers and returning US boaters with only a state driver’s license as ID.  If you are continuing on to the Canada portion of this trip, carry your passport, and verify that it will be CURRENT at the time of re-entry to the US.

If you are continuing on to Canada during this trip and do not yet have a passport, or if you need to renew yours, you will now need to do so immediately using the expedited process--see/call your local US Post Office for details.

By the way: everyone on board needs a valid passport–not just the vessel’s ‘master.’

Birth Certificate (or official copy of same):
I also carry on board an official copy of my birth certificate.  This, accompanied by a valid photo ID, can greatly streamline the re-entry process should a passport go missing (it is not, however, recommended as an alternative to the passport).

Copy of Current Vessel Registration or USCG Documentation:
It is essential to have current vessel papers in order and readily available.  It should go without saying, but the registration should be current, and vessel numbers and registration stickers properly displayed.  Out of date stickers are an invitation to a time-consuming boarding and inspection by the Coast Guard.

Copy of Your Vessel Insurance Policy:
This could come in handy in the event of a problem.  Carry your agent’s contact information as well.  Members of Boat US, or other organizations with towing coverage should bring that information.  There are several qualifying towboats in both the San Juan and Gulf Islands.

Log Book:
The practice of actively maintaining a log of comings and goings, purchases made while in Canada, recording customs clearance and/or PIN, numbers, etc., is advisable, as this information will be requested by both US and Canadian Customs.  It doesn’t have to be anything fancy, and can be customized to your liking.

Medical Documents and Prescriptions:
Persons with special conditions that might require medical records, letter(s) from Doctor, and/or special prescriptions for treatment should bring such documents along.  It is also advised to bring a supply of any required medications sufficient for the entire trip.  If you are continuing to Canada, verify any restrictions/regulations regarding medications.  Depending on our course, we might not be near a pharmacy until mid-trip.  In light of recent events, there might be a problem procuring medications while in Canada, or in bringing them back to the US.

Fishing, Shellfish Harvesting, or other licenses:
Licenses are required for fishing and some shellfish harvesting in both the US and Canada.  I would urge you to contact the US Fish and Game and the Canada Department of Fisheries for the actual requirements/regulations.  Note: These licenses might need to be obtained in advance.

Also, I know that Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning is a big problem in certain areas.  PLEASE do some in-depth research in advance if you plan on harvesting shellfish.  This form of poisoning often proves fatal.

Regarding the Immigration/Customs Process:

Those continuing on to Canada (Gulf Islands) will be clearing both Canadian Customs (upon arrival), and US Customs (upon re-entry to the United States.  It is advisable to familiarize one’s self with the procedures, requirements, and prohibitions for both countries.  The process sounds complicated, but in reality,  is usually very quick and easy if you are prepared in advance.

Here are some general guidelines:
• Only the vessel ‘Master’ may leave the boat to approach the customs office or phone (everyone else must stay on board until clearance number or release number is issued).

• There are strict limitations on certain substances such as alcohol and tobacco.  Verify these in advance, and try to limit what you carry (slows down process).

• There are strict prohibitions (change often) regarding certain meat, dairy, and produce products.  Verify these in advance and try to avoid carrying them across borders if in question.  If you do have them on board, list them prior to arriving at Customs.

• Confirm import limitations in advance, or risk paying import duty.

• Have all necessary clearance information in-hand when clearing-in.  There are often long lines, and you don’t want to hold up this process.

• Do not bring firearms into Canada, period!

• Do not carry or bring banned substances into either country.  This will ruin everyone’s trip, and you risk loosing your boat.

• Be courteous and cooperative with Customs Officers (of both countries!!).  If you have a political disagreement with a particular country, or have an antiauthority or antigovernment streak, this is not the place to show it.  I have never had a problem clearing customs, but I have witnessed boaters with attitude bring all manner of woe upon themselves.

US Customs:
As evidenced by recent letters in the April 2005 issue of 48ºNorth, the US re-entry process is a bit of a moving target.  There have been several stories of differing procedures for different ports/offices, as well as inconsistent or incomplete information.  My advice is to visit the official websites often, and call the anticipated Customs office just prior to trip departure for clarification of procedure and their specific requirements, as well as the current prohibitions (food/produce/etc.) and duty limits.  For purposes of this trip, the Friday Harbor office is the one to call (covers both Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor).  That number is 360.378.2080.

The US Customs websites (pertaining to pleasure boats) are:
http://www.customs.ustreas.gov/xp/cgov/travel/pleasure_boats/
http://www.customs.ustreas.gov/xp/cgov/travel/pleasure_boats/reporting_requirements_pleasure_boat.xml

I made some early phone queries regarding possible US re-entry options for our group.  My hope was that the group could clear-in via phone instead of having to physically appear at Friday or Roche Harbors.  Alas, this will not be possible for the group, as the majority of the participants are not in the ‘system’ for this calendar year--meaning that they have not physically cleared in/been inspected with the same vessel and occupants since January 1, 2005, and have not been issued a ‘PIN’ for phone clearance eligibility.  The group will have to proceed directly to either Friday or Roche Harbors for actual ‘physical’ clearance, and will not be allowed to stop/anchor en-route from Canada once the border has been crossed.

Subject to confirmation just prior to trip, here is a list of information you will want to have on hand (best to enter in your logbook, and carry with you to US Customs):
1. passports for all on board
2. vessel registration number (or USCG Documentation number)
3. vessel name
4. vessel builder and length
5. user fee decal number (if applicable)
6. Canadian Clearance Number (this is the number issued by Canadian Customs upon entry to Canada)
7. list of ports visited (with dates), and whether your visit was business or pleasure.
8. list of duty-limited items, items purchased/received while in Canada, and their cost/valuation.
9. list of fresh foods (meats, dairy, produce, etc.) on board

Canadian Customs:
The Canadian entry process is a breeze by comparison.  There are two likely ports of entry: Bedwell Harbour at South Pender Island, and Sidney at Vancouver Island.  Bedwell is not usually staffed, and clearance is via dedicated phones at head of dock.  The Canadian Custom officer will ask a series of questions and issue a clearance number that must be conspicuously displayed (make sure to log this number, the date, and the port of entry/clearance in your log book!).  It would still be a good idea to check their website and call prior to trip departure to confirm any new/specific procedures, as well as updated prohibitions.

The Canadian Customs website pertaining to vessels:
http://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/E/pub/cp/rc4161/rc4161-e.html

Subject to confirmation just prior to trip, here is a list of information you will want to have on hand (best to enter in your logbook, and carry with you to Canadian Customs):
1. passports for all on board
2. vessel registration number (or USCG Documentation number)
3. vessel name
4. vessel builder and length
5. US departure port
6. intended destination(s), length of stay, and whether your visit is to be business or pleasure.
7. list of duty-limited items.
8. list of fresh foods (meats, dairy, produce, etc.) on board

Safety and other Requirements:

Minimum Vessel Safety Requirements:
These are the items that are required by law.  These are not to be confused with items that one should have (some of which will be addressed later/below).  Given that we will likely have vessels in attendance ranging from fifteen to thirty-eight feet, I am not going to attempt to list the varying requirements for each vessel.  I would urge you, however to visit the following websites and study the requirements very carefully.  Please note that the requirements for Canada differ somewhat from those of the US, but there is the following exclusion from the Canada Office of Boating Safety:

“Safety Equipment Requirements:

Foreign pleasure craft (pleasure craft that are licensed or registered in a country other than Canada) need to comply with equipment requirements of the country in which the vessel is usually kept.”

If you have any questions, go straight to the jurisdiction, and not your local chandlery or other source for interpretation (been there, done that--and they were wrong!).  Please know that the likelihood of being boarded by either the US or Canadian Coast Guard is quite high in this area, and that they will do a safety inspection as a matter of course.

US Federal Vessel Safety Requirements:
http://www.uscgboating.org/safety/fedreqs/equipment.htm

Washington State Recreational Vessel Equipment and Operation:
http://www.boatwashington.org/minimum_equipment_requirements.htm
http://www.boatwashington.org/washington_boating_rules_regulations.htm

Canadian Vessel Safety Requirements:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/BoatingSafety/facts/foreign.htm#7
http://www.tc.gc.ca/BoatingSafety/equipment.htm

Canadian Chart Carriage Requirement:
Both commercial and recreational vessels travelling in Canadian waters are required to carry CHS (Canadian Hydrographic Service) charts and publications for that area:

“Carriage of Charts and Publications

4. (1) Subject to subsection (2), the master and owner of every ship shall have on board, in respect of each area in which the ship is to be navigated, the most recent editions of the charts, documents and publications that are required to be used under sections 5 and 6.”

The entire text of the law is available at:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/acts-regulations/GENERAL/c/csa/regulations/010/csa011/csa11.html

There is an exemption for ship masters able to demonstrate a ‘sufficient knowledge’ of several categories of detailed information (basically memorized light lists, shipping lane data, etc.)–suffice it to say that none of us fall into this category, and as such, are subject to the carriage requirement.

The good news is that CHS chart #3313 (actually a large chartbook), when properly updated, satisfies the carriage requirement for all of the Gulf Islands area.  See shopping list below for ordering information.  Everyone continuing to Canada should have this chart on board.

Ship Radio Station License and Restricted Radio Operator’s Permits:
Here is a maddening paradox: Since 1996, US vessels under 20 meters operating inside US waters are no longer required to have a Ship’s Radio License.  On the other hand, All US vessels operating in foreign waters (including Canada) are still required to have Ships Station Radio License ( $200.00--good for ten years) AND a Restricted Radio Operator’s Permit. ($50.00--good for life). Understand that the Radio License covers all of the (conforming) radios onboard, but the Operator’s Permit is issued to the INDIVIDUAL.  That means that everyone on board utilizing a ship’s radio is supposed to have his or her own Operator’s Permit.

Since there has been much misinformation and urban lore regarding the requirement of these two items, I refer you direct to the source–the FCC website:

http://wireless.fcc.gov/marine/fctsht14.html

The process for obtaining said license and permit is apparently so convoluted that Robert Hale, in the 2005 Waggoner (see book section below), devotes an entire section to navigating the labyrinth of forms and remittance advices.  Ultimately, he recommends that you consult third party websites devoted to the steps of this procedure.  Apparently, if you mess up and use the wrong form, they keep your money, and you get to start over.

To further muddy the waters, I quote Robert Hale:

“As a practical matter, Canadian authorities do not enforce US radio license laws, and US authorities are not going to follow a boat into Canada.  In other words, there’s no enforcement.  We have our station license, however, and would not be without it, enforcement or no enforcement.  We recommend that our readers do the same.”

And a quote direct from the Canada Office of Boating Safety regarding VHF use by American Citizens travelling in Canada:

“Currently, all VHF radio operators are required to have a Restricted Operator's Certificate (ROC) with maritime qualifications. Canada recognizes the American Certificate.”

So, what to do requiring the license and permit?  I think this has to be up to the individual.  I would not take Mr. Hale’s–or anyone else’s–anecdotal information as to enforcement/non-enforcement as the final word.

Some have proposed not using the VHF while in Canada as a solution.  I don’t know enough about the law to know whether only transmitting over the VHF is illegal without the license/permit, or if the presence of an installed/working VHF is sufficient to be in violation.  If anyone has time to research this further, that would be great!

As a partial solution, if we all carried the small, low-powered, and relatively inexpensive FRS radios for inter-group communications, we could avoid VHF transmission save for absolute emergencies.  We have used these FRS units extensively while cruising in the company of other boats, and they work great (especially over open water).  

They do not require licensing, have the benefit of single-channel use (not having to first monitor/call on channels 9 or 16 with a subsequent switch to a working channel), and are well suited to groups operating within a small radius.  FRS is also fully legal for use on land, which the VHF radios are definitely not!!  I have seen several stores selling a pair of decent FRS radios for as little as $49.00.

The somewhat more powerful GMRS radios require licensing in the US (I am not sure about Canada), and it would seem best to stick with FRS in order to avoid a legal quagmire similar to that of the VHF requirements above.

Safety Equipment (some suggestions beyond minimum required):

PFD’s (Personal Floatation Devices) that you will actually wear:
Aside from those awkward and cumbersome PFD’s that we all carry to meet the Coast Guard requirements, consider bringing PFD’s that you and your crew will actually wear at all times.  These could be a vest-style, inflatable, etc.--anything that you won’t shun because it is not uncomfortable or in the way of sailing.  My preference is an automatic (water activated) inflatable with manual activation backup, and with integrated harness (offered by SOSpenders, Mustang, West Marine, etc.).  I carry extra CO2 cartridges and rearming kits for mine.

Note: You cannot take inflatable vests/jackets onboard Airline flights without removing the CO2 cartridge first.  There is a West Marine in Anacortes that sells a variety of rearming kits and CO2 cartridges--call ahead and verify that they have what you need.

Fixed and/or Handheld VHF Radio:
VHF is still the preferred method of emergency communications/reporting, and your most reliable link to weather reporting.  A handheld VHF with the capacity to run on standard ‘AA’ batteries is best suited to boats without 12 volt systems, or without a means of charging, and make a good backup for boats with a fixed VHF.  Handhelds with only the capacity for proprietary Ni-Cad batteries will usually go dead within 8-10 hours of monitoring.  Those equipped only with proprietary Lithium-Ion batteries will usually last about twice that, and then must be recharged.  Units with ‘AA’ capacity will usually run for about 18-20 hours, and then batteries can be swapped out without concerns associated with recharge.  I favor the Icom M2A Handheld (see below), as it has the capacity for both Nicad and AA Alkaline operation, and is fully submersible.

If your radio is DSC capable, you will want to register and obtain an MMSI number.  If you intend to get the aforementioned Radio Station License, the MMSI will be assigned as part of that process.  If you are not obtaining the Radio Station License, you can get the MMSI free from Boat US.  See the following web site for details:

http://www.boatus.com/mmsi/

Also, if you have a fixed DSC capable radio, you must connect to a compatible (powered-up) GPS unit to enable the emergency position-reporting feature.  Check this out in advance, as there may need to be some fiddling with NMEA sentences, etc., to make these two devices talk to one another.

Cellular Phone and charger/extra battery:
While not officially recognized by USCG as a means of emergency reporting, it is nonetheless a good backup to VHF.  Coverage varies according to carrier, but I experienced about 90% service during my travels in both the San Juan and Gulf Islands last summer (with Cingular).  It also provides those at home a means of contact.  I also use in lieu of VHF to contact harbors (harbours in Canada!), and for phone-in customs clearance (they seem to prefer phone calls over VHF).  An extra battery would be a good idea--especially if you don’t have some means of recharging.

Boarding ladder or other means of assist to re-board quickly:
If you don’t have a permanently affixed boarding ladder, try to carry either a temporary ladder, or at a minimum, rig a step loop that can be used to aid in re-boarding (amidships around shroud base, for example).  The water is cold in these parts, and it is incredibly difficult to pull one's self back aboard without some kind of aid.

Lifesling or comparable life ring:
In addition to some means of boarding, I strongly suggest carrying a ‘Lifesling’ (or comparable unit).  This system aids in getting the person overboard reunited with the vessel, and also provides a means of lifting the person aboard if they are unable to do so themselves (again, it doesn’t take long to loose one’s strength in these cold waters).  A boom vang can be employed to assist in the hoisting.

At a minimum, some kind of throwing ring attached to 100’ or so of floating line is strongly recommended.

Throw Rope:
In addition to the Lifesling above, I carry a 70’ floating rescue/throw rope.  Mine has a weighted/floating bag to assist in throwing ease, but a monkey’s fist at one end would work as well.

Non-air/non mechanical Sound Producing Device:
I keep several ‘Fox’ whistles on the boat, including one on each of the inflatable lifejackets aboard.  In addition to the usual canned-propellant type horns, I carry an ‘Orion Marine Safety Blaster Horn.’  This is strange looking plastic tube that has a membrane at one end, and is open on the other.  It is fail-safe, as you only need to blow into a small hole in the side to produce a 120 decibel sound that can be heard more than a mile away.  Is USCG approved for some vessels.

Visual Distress Signals: Flares/Signalling kit:
I suggest either a 12 or 25 gauge kit over handheld-only kits.  I carry extra flares as well as some extra smoke signals for daytime use.  If you already have a flare kit, verify that the flares therein are not out of date (usually 42 months after manufacture, not purchase date).  If you buy a kit, sort through the store stock and find the latest possible manufacture date.  I also carry a distress flag and signal mirror.

First Aid kit:
Either a manufactured kit, or one assembled (can be more economical) is recommended.  In addition to standard items, stock with any emergency medications you might require.

Bilge pump(s):
In addition to any fixed and/or electric pump you might have onboard, carry a handheld pump such as the Beckson ‘Thirsty Mate’ or West Marine ‘Manual Bilge Pumps’.  In addition to emergencies, these come in handy for getting the last bit of water out of an M15 or M17 (?) bilge (aft), and are also useful for pumping out the dinghy after rough passages or rainfall.  Get the longest version you can store aboard conveniently.

Bright handheld spotlight (in addition to flashlight):
Consider a high-powered battery operated waterproof spotlight in addition to your normal flashlight.  These are essential when coming into a dark anchorage, or worst case, when trying to locate a person overboard when dark.  I carry a large two-filament ‘Pelican’ brand dive light for this purpose.  On my larger boat, I carry a 1 million-candle power rechargeable (via 12 volt or 110V. AC) spotlight in addition to the Pelican light.

Spare batteries:
Carry several changes of batteries for all essential equipment on board (handheld VHF, handheld GPS, handheld depth sounder, flashlights/spotlights, portable nav. lights, etc.).

Tapered wooden plugs for any thru-hulls/seacocks, transducers, etc.:
Each through-hull, transducer, or other hull penetration should have a tapered wood plug that can be inserted/driven into hole in the event of a breach.  Either drill these and attach a lanyard that can be tied to each fitting for readiness, or store them in a very convenient location.  These are readily available at any good chandlery.  Make sure to add a mallet/hammer to the toolbox as well.

Radar Reflector:
Regardless of itinerary, we will be crossing many busy shipping lanes and ferry routes.  In good visibility, visual identification might be sufficient, but when frequent summer fog builds-in, or when navigating before dawn/after dusk, a radar reflector is essential.  Even the cheap (about $20.00) gold foil-over-plastic ‘Emergency’ model by Davis can be remarkably effective and long-lived.  While the sleek, slim versions by ‘Mobri’ would seem attractive for the smaller boats, they did not test very well when compared to models by Davis or AquaMate (the latter only suitable for larger boats).

Navigation Equipment:

Fixed and/or handheld compass:
A good fixed compass is always desirable, but on the smaller boats, this might be impractical.  Even if you do have a fixed compass already, a handheld compass for taking fixes/running fixes is highly recommended.  I discovered a compass that does double duty as both as a good mounted steering compass (card large enough to read from anywhere in cockpit) and as a detachable handheld.  This is the Plastimo ‘Iris 100.’  While many chandleries (West included) stock this only in its non-lighted form, I prefer the version with internal lighting (LED w/battery power--AAA battery).  Check the shopping list below.

If you are in the market for a smaller fixed/bulkhead compass, the Plastimo ‘Mini-Contest’ is a nice fit.

When purchasing any compass (including the ‘Iris 100’ or ‘Mini Contest’), make sure that you get the proper ‘region.’  Most compasses are sold in Northern Hemisphere and Southern Hemisphere, as well as high-latitude ‘regions.’  In most cases, the standard Northern Hemisphere region will work fine for this portion of the Pacific Northwest, and are going to be the most versatile for other cruising areas in North America.

Both of these Plastimo compasses can be viewed at:
http://www.plastimo.com/catalogue/index.php?LangID=1&catid=1

Important note regarding Compass use in this region:
There are several areas (especially in the San Juan Islands) of pronounced local magnetic disturbance.’
These disturbances range from as little as 1º-2º, and as much as 15º-16º.  Find and take note of these areas as identified on your charts!  This is one place where a GPS (in addition to your charts/updated DR) can be helpful, as it derives your course heading through signal triangulation, and not a magnet compass.

GPS and/or Chartplotter:
While not absolutely essential, a GPS or Chartplotter unit can be very desirable/helpful.  While most (if not all) navigation in this area is line-of sight, there is always the spectre of fog and/or night sailing.  While I do not like to rely solely on electronic means, I have on occasion used the GPS to negotiate near zero visibility situations.  It is a good idea to update your DR position on a paper chart as you go, even if you do use a GPS/chart plotter.

Also, there is a certain sameness to some of the shorelines and background topography of this area.  It is easy, in some areas, to confuse features.  Even the most simple GPS units afford the ability to locate/verify a position on the chart, and can give reliable information as to speed, course, and cross track error.

I would strongly suggest the practice of entering waypoints and routes in advance (This can be done the night before if the itinerary is uncertain).  This way, if you suddenly find yourself in fog/low visibility/dark, you can steer a course by stored route or ‘Go To’ commands.  Double-check your waypoints against the chart to make sure that they are correct.  Check the shopping list below for several sources of pre-listed waypoints.

Although mapping GPS/chartplotters are very convenient, one can do very well with non-mapping/charting units by entering waypoints and routes in advance and maintaining a good DR on the paper charts.  If you do have (or intend to get) a mapping GPS or chart plotter, I have listed the most popular cartridges/chips below in the ‘shopping section.’

There are several good portable (hand-hold-able, no external antenna required, internal-battery) mapping GPS/chartplotters available: 

The Garmin GPSMAP 76 series (76S, 76C, 76CS) offer the ability to upload charts from your PC (no Mac support, alas) via Garmin BlueChart CD’s (at additional cost).  The disadvantages of this unit are the small screen, and the possibility that the internal memory of these machines (varies by model) might not be able to hold all of the charts for a trip of this nature (in other words, you might have to bring a laptop and upload new charts as you go).

The Garmin GPSMAP 276C has a much larger display, internal antenna, utilizes pre-programmed BlueChart Data Cards (purchased as pre-programmed, or you can purchase the blank data cards and program via BlueChart CD’s and your PC--again, no Mac support), and an internal Li-Ion battery good for 5-15 hours of use before recharge.  While this is an impressive unit, it is poorly suited to smaller boats lacking 12 Volt systems and/or 12V charging system.

You can compare all of the Garmin units at:
http://www.garmin.com/marine/products.html#handheld

The Raymarine RC-400 is an interesting alternative in that it has a screen larger than the Garmin GPSMAP 76 series (though not as large as the GPSMAP 276C), can be used as either a handheld or a mountable (comes with mount), and perhaps most importantly, utilizes standard ‘AA’ format batteries.  It comes with NiMH batteries that are rechargeable in the unit (built in 12v. charger), and can also use standard ‘AA’ alkaline batteries.  It includes both a cigarette lighter cord and a hardwire cord with NMEA capability.  This unit utilizes ‘Navionics Gold’ chart cartridges (compact flash) purchased separately. I recently purchased one of these in lieu of one the Garmins above because I use a Mac (not a PC), and wanted the ability to use ‘AA’ batteries when on the M15 or other people’s boats.  I have not used it extensively, though I have played with it a bit.  I don’t think it is quite as intuitive/user friendly as the Garmin units, and it lacks a few of their features.  Still, it is a nice unit, and if you are looking for a stand-alone (no computer uploading) unit that also runs on ‘AA’ batteries, this is the only one I know.  I was also told that the Navionics cartography is superior to the Garmin BlueChart, though I cannot corroborate this.

You can see it at:
http://www.raymarine.com/raymarine/ProductDetail.asp?site=1&section=2&page=774&product_id=1723

Before purchasing a mapping GPS or chart plotter, price the software/cartridges for your intended cruising areas.  It is not difficult to spend in excess of $1000.00 for a GPS/Chartplotter unit and a couple of cartridges!

Charting/Chart Plotting Tools:
 A good set of dividers and parallel rules are essential to chart work.  There are numerous other plotting gadgets out there that can be helpful.

I like to use clear, waterproof ‘zip- lock’-type chart covers, both to protect the chart, and to provide an erasable writing surface (using white-board-type pens) that I can mark-up without defacing paper charts.

Binoculars:
I consider a good pair of binoculars essential as both safety and navigation tools.  As mentioned above, land features and islands of this area seem to blend into one another with frequency.  I am forever using my binoculars to find small inlets/passes, check shipping traffic, and of course, look for whales!

This is one of those categories where you get what you pay for (up to a point).  Small/cheap binoculars might be better than nothing, but when you get your hands on a really good pair, the difference is amazing (and useful!).  Integrated bearing compasses are a nice addition, as they allow you to take bearings on distant objects and can be used in lieu of a handheld compass.

I would recommend a pair with no more than 7x magnification.  Anything greater is too difficult to use on a boat smaller than a cruise ship.  Also, if you can afford it, go for a pair with a  ‘Light Transmission Efficiency’ of 90% or more.

While I always wanted one of the top-of-the-line Steiner or Fujinon models, I recently settled for a pair of the West branded ‘Tahiti Waterproof 7 x 50 Center-Focus with Compass.’  So far, I have been pleased with the choice. They are currently on sale at West for  $239.99 (thru 4/24).

Fixed or Hand-held Depth Sounder:
These waters are riddled with reefs, rocks, and ever-shifting bars.  Some kind of depth measurement device is highly advised.

I consider my ‘Depthmate’ handheld depth sounder among my best purchases ever.  This flashlight-sized handheld has a digital (backlighted LCD) depth readout up to something like 250’, is powered by a single standard 9V battery, and is easy to use.  You simply reach over the side, dip the tip into the water, and engage the switch.  The depth readout stays visible for several seconds thereafter.  It can also be used underwater for distance finding, but I have yet to find an application for that function!  The units are relatively cheap (about $140.00), don’t require hardwiring or a 12V system, and don’t require holes in your boat!  I also find this useful on my larger boat that does have a fixed depth sounder, as it allows me to scout anchorages and uncharted passages in the dinghy prior to committing with the big boat.  The Depthmate is marketed under several brands and models such as ‘Hondex’, ‘Plastimo,’ and ‘Speedmate.’  A functionally similar unit is marketed by ‘Norcross’ and sold by West Marine.  See ‘shopping’ section below.

Ground Tackle:

Anchors:
Each boat should carry at least two anchors--preferably of different type.  By far the most popular anchor in these waters is the Bruce (or Bruce type copies such as the ‘Horizon Claw’, or ‘Manta’).  These aren’t the easiest anchors to stow, but perform well in a variety of bottom conditions and reset quickly.  I still favor the original Bruce over the copies (they are not identical, in spite of claims to this effect).  I would suggest the following sizes by boat:

M15: 11lb.	Bruce 	(arguably a bit large, but the next size down--only available in copy now--is 4.4 lbs. 			This is the Heavy Duty anchor on my M15).
M17: 11lb  	Bruce

M23: 16.5 lb. Bruce

A good second anchor is the Danforth type.  There are several copies of this design--some good, and some very poor.  I have used a 6 lb. West Marine ‘Performance’ anchor on the M15 with good results.  I have also used a Danforth ‘HT’ (High Tensile) 5 lb.--also with good results.  The Fortress brand versions are aluminum, and are excellent, though expensive.

By the way, since most M-boats lack a dedicated anchor locker (or anchor rode locker) forward, I have found that deploying the anchor from a cockpit locker works well.  I keep a snatch block on the stem-head fitting, and I walk the rode forward after deployment.  Weighing anchor is the reverse of this process.  I store both my Bruce and my Danforth type anchors and rodes in a large rectangular ‘Rubbermaid’ container in the deep cockpit locker to port (is to port on my M15–others vary).

 Rode:
Most boats in the Pacific Northwest carry significantly more rode than in other regions of the country.  Many cruising areas (especially farther north) have very deep anchorages.  I carry one 300’ length of 3/8” New England Ropes Premium Three-Strand for the primary anchor, and a 150’ length of the same for the secondary on the M15.  I have added a second 150’ length as an emergency spare.

On the Flicka, I carry a 600’ length of 1/2” primary, and two 300’ lengths as secondary/spare.

I use two boat-lengths of chain on both boats (3/16” on the M15, and 5/16” on the Flicka).  One boat’s length is probably adequate.

While this might seem excessive at first glance, 300’ of rode allows a 6:1 scope in 50 feet of water.  I have used every bit of this on several occasions.

Other:

Fuel Tanks/Capacity:
While sailing is always desirable, this area is notorious for fickle and/or contrary winds.  Prepare for (and count on) considerable motoring.  You will need at least enough fuel to motor 40+ miles (two days) without refuelling.  If you have a smaller outboard with an internal tank only, consider getting a Tempo-type fuel tank with hose and primer bulb.  In lieu of the usual hose-end motor connection, place a brass shutoff valve and a short length of hose at the outlet.  This way you can refuel while underway by simply removing the outboard fuel cap, inserting the hose end into the tank, opening the brass valve, and then pumping via the primer bulb until tank is filled.  I have used this system with flawless results for long, sustained trips.

Towable Dinghy:
A good, stable, and towable dinghy is essential when cruising in this region.  In addition to it being the only way ashore in many anchorages and from Marine Park detached floats, there are also many anchorages that require a stern tie to shore.  I have used a West Marine RU-260 inflatable behind both the M15 and the Flicka.  While a bit large for the M15, I have been able to deflate and stow below when conditions warranted.

Dinghy Tow & Shore Tie Lines:
I combine these here, as I use the same line for both.

When towing, it is advisable to use a floating bridle and tow line--in part because it helps keep the line out of the prop when motoring.

In addition a shore-tie/stern line is often required.  This bitter end of this line is usually rowed to shore in the dinghy, run around a tree, rock, or through an eye set in rock, and then back to the boat.  This limits swing in tight anchorages, and keeps the boat from blowing off into deep water (there are many areas where the shallow ‘shelf’ drops off very quickly, and there is a danger of the anchor dragging off this edge into very deep water).  When leaving the anchorage, one can slip one end of the line and retrieve it without having to row ashore again.

These lines can be the ubiquitous, cheap yellow polypropylene, but this rope is difficult to handle/flake, deteriorates rapidly in UV, and does not hold knots well.

The best line I have found for these purposes is the New England Ropes ‘Dinghy Tow Line’.  This line has a floating polypropylene core covered by a nylon double braid cover.  West Marine sells this line for $1.19/ft., but I found it an East Coast shop called ‘Rigging Only’ (www.riggingonly.com) for $0.56/ft.  Even deeper discounts are available if you buy by the spool ($233.00/600’). Check them out for anchor rode (NER Premium Three-Strand) as well, and consider going in with other trip participants on spools--the savings are significant!

I find about 200’ feet to be sufficient for most shore ties in this region.

Large/oversized fenders (enough for both side of boat):
While one would think that a small, light boat would only require small fenders, I have found the opposite to be true.  The smaller M-boats are susceptible to severe rolling when tied to unprotected or poorly protected docks/floats.  A good, large fender is required to prevent same from popping out when the boat rolls from side to side.

Furthermore, rafting is commonplace in tight harbors or anchorages (or in group settings such as this rendezvous).  Boats move independent from one another--often in opposite directions (especially during big wakes as they reflect off the shore).  In addition to four 6” x 18-1/2” cylindrical fenders, I carry two 12” round fenders for rafting.  These help hold the boats apart when things get rolling.  

Note: when rafted, stagger the boats so that the masts do not line up.  I have seen three Montgomerys tangle their spreaders and shrouds while rafted together.

Docklines/springlines:
Carry enough dock and spring lines for both sides of the boat.  This way the boat can be suspended in the center of a double-finger slip, or can be secured when rafted.

Do not use lower-stretch double braid nylon line in lieu of high stretch/high elongation three-strand nylon for docklines.  The former transfers too much shock/strain to the boat’s cleats.  Also, do not oversize (diameter) these lines, as the shock absorption will be similarly compromised.

Cockpit cover/boom tent;
Some kind of cockpit cover or boom tent is highly recommended for this trip--especially for the M15 (and maybe the M17), where getting out of the rain is difficult at best (can’t really sit below), and cooking below is not really an option.  Even the larger boats can benefit from a cover of some kind.  This cover could be something simple (tarp/shock cords), or something custom (such as Rich Cotrell’s as depicted on the MSOG site).  At a minimum, something to cover at least the sliding hatch and companionway is essential.

June is an iffy month weather wise, and it would be a very odd year indeed not to get some rain.  Worst case, we might have rain for several days at a time.

Water tank and bottles (limited/nonexistent water on islands):
Subject to ultimate itinerary, fresh water should be available every other day or so.  On some of the smaller islands or anchorages, the water is not potable without purification.  Each boat should carry sufficient drinking water to last several days.  On my boats, I carry several separate containers for drinking water, and keep the main tank for washing/dishes/etc.  On the M15, I put a Todd 3 gallon polyethylene tank behind the centerboard trunk/under the cockpit.  From this, I plumbed a clear vinyl hose to the cockpit locker (with plenty of excess so that I can reach the entire cockpit).  On the end is an outboard motor squeeze-bulb primer that serves as my water pump.  A separate (larger) hose with cap was also run to the cockpit locker for filling the tank.  A vent hose was run high up into the combing.  This system works very well, and is reasonably inexpensive.

Boat washing might be a problem this year (in certain harbors), as the region has only received a fraction of normal rainfall.

Solar Shower:
I carry a solar shower on deck for sponge baths/post-salt water swimming showers.  This makes living on a small boat more tolerable. 

Head/holding tank:
Direct discharge/dumping anywhere in the San Juan Islands is strictly prohibited.  In Canadian waters, the restrictions are more variable.  Many harbors are strictly no-discharge, while others have lesser restrictions.  

Even in harbors where discharge is allowed, consider not doing so.  It is disheartening to be in a beautiful anchorage (one in which you might even have gone swimming) only to see feces and/or toilet paper float by.  There should be ample opportunity for both pump-out and porta-potti dumping, and as such, we should not need to discharge directly.

It will be helpful if your porta-potti is easily removable, and the bottom holding tank portion easily separated for easier carriage ashore (often by dinghy).

Foul Weather Gear:
Again, June is very much fair game for considerable rain.  Some kind of foul weather gear, or full rain gear is a must.  I like to have a waterproof hat in lieu of using the hood on my foul weather gear.  The hood makes me feel ‘closed in’ and compromises hearing ability.

Some kind of waterproof boots are also desirable.  I find that the shorter ‘Dinghy’ boots are often better suited to the conditions (non-offshore), and to small boats than the standard the full-height versions.

Spares/Tools:
It is a good idea to carry some general tools such as:
      
      • screwdriver assortment
	• pliers assortment
	• ’vice-grips’
	• ‘crescent’ wrenches
	• diagonal cutters
	• wire cutters
	• allen wrenches
	• end wrenches
	• hammer
	• punches (alignment, center, etc.).
	• hack saw
	• funnel(s)
	• pocket knife/multi-tool
	• duct tape--the universal tool!

In addition to general tools, I would suggest going through all of your systems to see if there are any special/specific tools required such as:

      • metric tools (wrenches, allen wrenches, etc.)
	• ‘Torx’ or other special drivers
	• engine specific tools (spark plug wrenches, filter wrenches, etc)
	• fuse-removal tools
	• electrical multi-meter
	• plumbing supplies (Teflon tape, pipe joint compound, etc.)
	

Check your rigging as well, and make sure you have any special tools required to adjust or make repairs such as:

	• rigging knife
	• marlinspike
	• Shackle key
	• compact bolt cutters (to cut rig free in an emergency)
	• fid
	• rivet gun/rivets

Also, go through all of the same systems, rigging, motors, etc., and determine what spares you are likely to need.  These might include:

	• sail track stops
	• cotter pins/rings
	• spare shackles
	• spare shackle pins
	• rigging tape
	• whipping/seizing twine
	•’ dead-man’ switches for outboard
	• shear pins and/or cotter pins (prop/shaft)
	• spare spark plug(s)
	• bulbs (running lights, interior lights, etc.)
	• fuses
	• porta-potti seal gaskets
	• misc. spare line
	• spare fasteners box (screws, bolts, washers, nuts, etc.)

Trash compactor bags:
These are extra-heavy bags that are useful (and reusable) for garbage, wet gear, keeping clothes dry, etc.  Garbage disposal opportunities are likely to be somewhat infrequent, depending on itinerary.  Plan on being able to store at least three days worth of garbage at a stretch.

‘Zip-Lock’ bags:
Great for protecting anything that you don’t want to get wet or soggy.  I find the freezer bags to be a bit heavier-duty than the ‘normal’ bags.

Waterproof marking pen, index cards, and ‘Scotch’ tape:
We will need to record and display our Canadian clearance numbers upon check-in.  The best place is usually in a portlight (though these are pretty dark on some Montgomerys).  I carry some index cards and ‘Scotch’ tape for this purpose.  Alternately, one could put the card in a zip-lock bag and tape to the outside of the house or mast (might need different tape).  In any case, it needs to be clearly visible by the Canadian Coast Guard.

Vessel Readiness (in addition to above categories):

Auxiliary Motor/Engine in good working order:
Extensive motoring–like it or not–is a fact of cruising these waters.  While June is generally better wind-wise than July or August, every year seems to bring different conditions.  A sufficiently powerful outboard in excellent repair will be essential for both safety and schedule-keeping on this trip.  While hopefully it won’t be required, you should be prepared to motor as much as 8-10 hours at a stretch if conditions/schedule demand.  Some emergency parts/services will be available en-route, or with some amount of detour.

Rigging in good working order:
Check both your standing and running rigging thoroughly prior to the trip.  There are rigging shops in Anacortes and Sidney for emergency repairs, but not much in between.

Sail Plan:
There is no predicting what the wind conditions will be this year.  June can see wild swings of wind and weather, even within the same day (or the same hour).  Ideally, each boat would have a full compliment of sails for all conditions.  Barring that, consider the following as a suggested minimum:

1) A good mainsail with at least one set of reef points (two strongly recommended), and with all 			associated reefing lines/ties installed and ready to deploy.

2) One good (working) headsail that is not a large lapper or genoa.

3) A storm jib (if available), or a reefable working jib (as an alternative)

You can, of course, sail with main-only if conditions deteriorate, but you will suffer dramatic decreases in windward sailing ability without an appropriate headsail.

Some kind of light-air sail can be very desirable (but not essential).  A nylon hank-on drifter is a great sail for these waters, as it will fill and draw when a Dacron genoa will not.  An asymmetrical, or if you are really brave (or have a crew), a symmetrical/poled spinnaker can be great fun.  If you don’t have any of these, don’t despair, as these boats still perform well with a good working jib or larger.

A whisker pole is of great advantage for downwind legs.  I find the adjustable length poles the best bet for these smaller boats (Forespar makes several different lengths/diameters that will accommodate all of the different M-boats).

Mechanical/plumbing/electrical systems inspected and in good working order:
Check all of your systems thoroughly prior to departure.  Take extra care to confirm that any thru-hulls, or other penetrations such as knotmeters, depth sounder transducers, etc. are sound and fully operable.  Check all electrical connections, bulbs, etc. for function.  If you have a fixed VHF with a remote/masthead antenna, check functions/transmission/connections.

Skills Set:

The San Juan and Gulf Island regions can be challenging, dynamic areas.  While navigation is often line-of-sight, fog can build-in with alarming speed.  Large tide changes and rapid currents can present both inconvenience and hazards.  Large seas can build in the straits, and can be exacerbated by contrary currents.  High winds can occur at any time, and without much warning. Busy shipping and ferry lanes must be negotiated.

There will, no doubt, be some very well ‘seasoned’ sailors in this group, as well as some who might find some of this intimidating.  While proper preparation and a certain base-level of skills is essential, I hope that anyone feeling uncomfortable, or needing extra assistance will not hesitate to speak up.  Likewise, I hope those in a position to render assistance will do so freely.   Everyone brings something unique and special to a trip like this, and I suspect we can all learn from each other.

Here is a partial list of applicable skills to study and practice: 
 
General Chart reading skills:
You should be familiar with the various symbols, abbreviations, and terms used on both NOAA and CHS charts.  If you are rusty on these, I would recommend picking up copies of NOAA chart #1 (US) and CHS chart #1 (Canada) (see shopping guide below).  Also, you should be familiar with the chart scaling and distance protocol of all the various charts to be to be used.

General Navigation/ability to maintain a DR position, take a running fix, etc.:
GPS is not a substitute for maintaining a DR (Dead Reckoning) position.  Make sure to review/practice taking running fixes, understanding and estimating current set and drift, etc.  Be able to read/interpret the tide heights and the tidal currents portions of a tide book.  Learn how to cross reference the Canadian Current Atlas to the Washburne Tables (and vice-versa).

Nautical Rules-of-Road:
Re-familiarize yourself with the with the Nautical Rules-of-Road, and the sound signals thereof:

US:
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/boating/6_2_b.htm

Canadian:
http://www.boaterexam.com/Training/nautical1.html

General sail-handling skills:
Re-familiarize yourself with your rig/running rigging, and be confident with sail hoisting/lowering/changes in adverse conditions.  Understand sail area and helm-balance relationship.  Know how to de-power quickly in the event of a gust.

Sail Reefing Skills:
Know how to reef mainsail quickly and while underway (without having to start motor or head into wind).  Be able to shake-out reefs while underway.

If you have a reefable hank-on headsail, practice reefing this in advance.  If you have roller-furling, know how much tension to maintain when furling to prevent over-wraps, and know how much the sail can be rolled and still maintain good, flat shape.

Anchoring skills:
Know how to select appropriate anchor for bottom-type, how to deploy, set, weigh.  Know appropriate scope relative to conditions and proximity of other boats.

VHF radio use: 
Know/learn the regulations and protocol of VHF radios, as well as the operation of your specific radio.  A knowledge of multichannel scanning can be helpful in monitoring ship traffic, hailing channels, etc., simultaneously.

Man (Person!) Overboard procedures:
Know the theory and various methods of man-overboard recovery, and determine which is most appropriate to your vessel and point of sail.  Practice with your crew in advance.  Also familiarize yourself/crew with any man-overboard gear/gear procedures.


Shopping List (Charts, Publications, books):

OK, now for the fun part.  I have assembled a list of applicable charts, publications, and books, and electronics appropriate to this trip.

Please read notes regarding charts carefully, as there is considerable redundancy in the list I provide.

A note about books:  This list is really an embarrassment of riches.  I can’t think of another cruising area that is so well documented, and in so many ways.  I have every book listed here save for one (has not shipped yet).  There is a great deal of information overlap here, and yet I find that there is something unique and special about every book.  I would not want to be without any of them (keep in mind that I sail here often, and that I now have a bigger boat with something like 8’ of bookshelf space!).  It is tough to select and recommend only a few.  My hope is that in reading through the list, you will find items that appeal to you and your specific interests.

I am flagging those items that I deem ‘Necessary’ with two asterisks (**) preceding the title/listing.  These are either legally required, or required in a practical sense for navigation, safety, or both.

Those listed as ‘recommended’ are flagged with a single asterisk (*).  These are items I believe will make your trip easier, safer, more enjoyable, or greatly enhance your experience in some way.  Some of these items involve a value judgment on my part, and thus are somewhat subjective.  Please review carefully prior to ordering.

At the end of this section, I am including all items marked ‘Necessary’ and ‘recommended’ in  list form to simplify ordering.  All others are at your discretion or preference.

When reviewing the list, note those items that are specific to Canada/the Gulf Islands.  If you are not continuing on to Canada, some of the items listed will not apply.

Finally, I have asked Waypoint/Complete Cruising Solutions in Alameda, CA (one of the premier West Coast nautical chart, book, and electronics sellers) to put up a Montgomery-Specific website for ordering trip-specific items.  This site will include many (if not most) of the items below.  The folks at Waypoint are extremely knowledgeable about all NOAA and CHS charts, and know/carry an extensive selection of Pacific Northwest cruising guides.  They also carry handheld and fixed GPS, chartplotters/ software, handheld and fixed VHF radios, HF Radios, and many other types of marine electronics. They are dealers for Icom, Garmin, and other lines.  I have been very happy with their high level of  knowledge and customer service, and have found their prices to be very competitive.

My hope is that this will serve as convenient one-stop shopping for those who need charts, books, or electronics.  I don’t receive anything from this save for the satisfaction of helping to support an excellent local and independent shop.  I will forward the link to the website as soon as it is up (This should be by early next week).  I believe there will be an order cut-off date after which there will be no guarantee of receiving shipment in time for the trip.  By studying the list now, perhaps we can all be ready to order by the time the website is up!?

OK, Here we go!

Charts:

US Waters/San Juan Islands:

**Maptech Waterproof Chartbook: San Juan Islands (ISBN 0743608844-5)
I believe that this is the best and most cost effective way to get all the needed charts for the San Juan Islands portion of the trip.  There are several added bonuses to this package.  All pages of this chartbook are waterproof.  There are numerous waypoints and several routes placed at strategic locations throughout the charts.  The new (second edition, I believe) version should come with a CD with all of the charts in electronic form, as well as a ‘light’ version of Maptech’s plotting software (PC compatible only).  Do not confuse this waterproof chartbook with Maptech’s other (and larger) atlases.  This one is the perfect size for the smaller boats, and is fully waterproof.

NOAA Chart #18423 SC FOLIO SMALL-CRAFT Bellingham to Everett Including San Juan Islands; Blaine
This is a fold-out small craft chart ‘book’ with paper (non-waterproof) charts.  This could be used in lieu of the waterproof Maptech version above, but it does not have the waypoints, and is not as rugged. (newest version 12/03).

*NOAA Chart #18421 Strait of Juan de Fuca to Strait of Georgia; Drayton Harbor (1:80,000)
I like to carry this one full-size, small-scale paper chart, as it is great for seeing the ‘big picture’ (something that the smaller chart books often obscure).  It is in no way a substitute for the appropriate larger-scale charts (as found in the ‘Maptech’, chart #18423, or in individual large-scale charts listed below.  (newest version 10/03)

Individual NOAA Charts encompassing San Juan Islands:
These are the full-sized, large scale individual NOAA paper charts for complete coverage of the San Juan Islands: 
 NOAA Chart #18427 (1:25,000) Anacortes to Skagit Bay (newest version 02/04)
 NOAA Chart #18429 (1:25,000) Rosario Strait-southern part (newest version 12/02)
 NOAA Chart #18430 (1:25,000) Rosario Strait-northern part (newest version 10/03)
 NOAA Chart #18431 (1:25,000) Rosario Strait to Cherry Point (newest version 12/02
 NOAA Chart #18432 (1:25,000) Boundary Pass (newest version 01/03)
 NOAA Chart #18433 (1:25,000) Haro-Strait-Middle Bank to Stuart Island (newest version12/02)
 NOAA Chart #18434 (1:25,000) San Juan Channel (newest version 10/03)

Canadian Gulf Islands:

**Canadian Hydrographic Service Chart #3313 (Small-Craft Chart Book)
This ‘chart’ is actually a large book of 24 charts encompassing all of the Gulf Islands.  In addition to the large and small scale charts, it includes information on navigation, navigational aids and dangers, currents, winds, weather, emergencies, anchorages, floats, and facilities.  It also has includes aerial and approach photographs.  It’s not cheap, but is economical compared to purchasing individual large-scale paper charts, and includes useful information not found on the paper charts.  It is not waterproof, but does come in a zip-lock bag (I recommend getting a third-party, heavy duty chart cover with zipper that will hold up longer).

*Canadian Hydrographic Chart #LC 3462 (1:80,000cm)
I like to carry this one full-size, small-scale paper chart for ‘big picture’ planning/routing.  Not a substitute for proper large-scale charts such as #3313 or the individual large-scale charts listed below.

Individual CHS Charts encompassing Canadian Gulf Islands:
These are the full-sized, large scale individual CHS paper charts for complete coverage of the Canadian Gulf Islands:
Canadian Hydrographic Chart #3441 (1:40,000cm)
Canadian Hydrographic Chart #3442 (1:40,000cm)
Canadian Hydrographic Chart #3473 (1:12,000cm and 1:18,000cm)
Canadian Hydrographic Chart #3476 (1:10:000cm)
Canadian Hydrographic Chart #3477 (1:4000cm and 1:15,000)
Canadian Hydrographic Chart #3478 (1:10,000cm, 1:15,000cm, and 1:20,000cm)

Official Publications:

US Waters/San Juan Islands:

*Office of Coast Survey: Chart #1: Nautical Chart Symbols, Abbreviations and Terms
I strongly recommend keeping one of these on board.  It is, as the name implies, a list of chart symbols, abbreviations, and terms for any NOAA chart (not just this region).  I find myself referring to it frequently when I can’t remember an infrequently used symbol or abbreviation–or when I forget the common ones!


United States Coast Pilot #7 37th Edition: Pacific Coast: California, Oregon, Washington, Hawaii , and Pacific Islands, US Department of Commerce/NOAA, 2005
This is the official phonebook sized government publication used mostly by commercial vessels and ships operating in the region.  I carry one ever since an admiralty lawyer told me it was a good idea, but it is heavy!  It is helpful in understanding shipping lanes, separation zones, and Vessel Traffic Service information.  It has some helpful general navigation information as well.

Canadian Gulf Islands:

*Canadian Hydrographic Service Chart #1: Symbols, Abbreviations, Terms, 2004 Edition
This is the Canadian equivalent of Chart #1 above, and as such, lists chart symbols, abbreviations, and terms for any CHS chart (not just this region).  I strongly recommend carrying this ‘chart’ on board when using Canadian Charts.  The Canadian charts differ from US charts in several significant ways, and some of the nomenclature and/or symbols are different as well.

Sailing Directions: British Columbia Coast (South Portion), Volume 1, Canadian Hydrographic Service
This is the Canadian near-equivalent to the US Coast Pilot above.  Chart #3313 includes some of the information herein.
 
Tide and Currents Publications, Entire Region:

**Current Atlas/Atlas des Courants: Juan de Fuca Strait to/a Strait of Georgia, Canadian Hydrographic Service
This is one of the most important items to purchase.  Even though this is a Canadian publication, it covers BOTH THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS AREA AND THE GULF ISLANDS!!  It is the best (and apparently now the only) current atlas of its kind for this region.  It depicts both the direction and velocity of currents for every magnitude and stage of tide.  It is difficult to use by itself, and therefore MUST BE PURCHASED TOGETHER WITH THE WASHBURNE TABLES LISTED BELOW!!

**Washburne, Randel. Wahsburne’s Tables 2005. Bellevue: Weatherly Press/Robert Hale & Co. (published annually).  ISSN: 1072-317X
This is used to simplify use and application of the ‘Current Atlas: Juan de Fuca Strait.’  above.  This provides daily  hour-by-hour page references to the Atlas, and makes the process incredibly easy compared to trying to use the atlas alone.  A MUST!

**Canadian Tide and Current Tables: Juan de Fuca Strait and Strait of Georgia, Volume 5, 2005, Canadian Hydrographic Service
This is one of the best ‘tide books’ for the region, and includes stations in the San Juan Islands as well as the Canadian Gulf Islands.  Not a substitute for the Current Atlas/Washburne’s Tables combination, but necessary for tide height and slack water information.

2005 Ports and Passes Tides, Currents & Charts: Olympia, WA to Prince Rupert, BC. Lantzville, BC: China Sea Ventures.  (Published annually).  ISBN: 0-9684152-8-8 (2005 issue)
Another good tide book covering the region.  A good one to have if you anticipate cruising outside of the immediate San Juan or Gulf Islands areas.

Ports and Passes 2005 Current Atlas Tables.  Lantzville, BC: China Sea Ventures.  (published annually) ISSN: 1712-1574
Does the same thing as the Washburne’s Tables, though there are some curious departures from Washburne (only for a couple of hours each day), and I have not yet been able to determine which is more nearly correct.  For now, I would stick with Washburne’s unless you can’t get it.

Waypoint Guides:

*Hale, Robert.  Weatherly Waypoint Guide, Volume 1: Puget Sound, San Juan Islands, Strait of Juan de Fuca.  Bellevue: Weatherly Press/Robert Hale & Co.  ISBN: 0-935727-16-7
I find this guide very helpful when I need to quickly find a waypoint (or list of waypoints to make a route).  It is basically a book with rough charts and corresponding waypoints at key locations.  Each waypoint has a description and coordinates in list form next to the charts.  This one covers the San Juan Islands portion of the trip.  Highly recommended for anyone with GPS.

*Hale, Robert.  Weatherly Waypoint Guide, Volume 2: Gulf of Georgia.  Bellevue: Weatherly Press/Robert Hale & Co.  ISBN: 0-935727-10-8
This is the same as above, but for the Canadian portion of the trip.  Highly recommended for anyone with GPS continuing on to Canada.

Cruising Guides, Entire Region:

*Douglass, Don & Hemingway-Douglass, Réanne.  Exploring the San Juan and Gulf Islands: Cruising Paradise of the Pacific Northwest. 2nd Edition  Anacortes: Fine Edge.  2003. ISBN: 1-932310-00-2
If you can only buy one book, this is the one.  It covers both the San Juan and Gulf Islands equally well.  It is quite comprehensive in its coverage, and virtually all locations listed (and it has most all of them) have been well tested by the authors.  The prime reason that this book is now on my ‘highly recommended’ list is that the newer (2nd Edition) now has comprehensive waypoint and route maps for each area of the region.  It is possible to lay-in an entire trip using these waypoints (though I still like the Weatherly Waypoint Guides for really quick help).  It lacks much of the historical, human interest, or in-depth information contained in more area-specific guides, but is overall very helpful.  MAKE SURE YOU GET THE NEWER 2ND EDITION!! Highly recommended!

*2005 Waggoner Cruising Guide.  Bellevue: Weatherly Press/Robert Hale & Co. (published annually) ISBN: 0-935727-23-X
This annually updated guide covers waters from South Puget Sound to Prince Rupert (near the Alaska border).  In spite of its ambitious range, it is nonetheless is one of my favorite guides for the San Juans and Gulf Islands.  It has tons of helpful information that the other guides just don’t list such as Customs info, Radio use (and license), Radio channels–both US and Canadian, recommended equipment, useful phone numbers, and on, and on.  It also has the best, most current, listing of boat yards, marine repair/parts, fuel docks, etc., of any guide I have seen.  It accepts advertisements, but I actually find some of them useful.  I buy it every year, and the annual updates are worth it.  Highly recommended!

Northwest Boat Travel.  Woodinville, WA: Vernon Publications, LLC.  Published 4-times annually.  ISBN: 0-945989-16-4 (June 2004 issue--update might be different #)
This is very similar in format and concept to the Waggoner  above.  While seemingly redundant, I find that this one will occasionally have some piece of information that I was unable to find in the Waggoner  (and vice-versa).  Even though it is published 4-times annually, I tend to only buy this one once a year.  A very good guide.

Cruising Guides, San Juan Islands specific:

*Baily, Jo and Nyberg, Carl.  Gunkholing in the San Juan Islands: A comprehensive Guide Encompassing Deception Pass to the Canadian Boundary.  Seattle: San Juan Enterprises.  2000.  ISBN: 0-944257-04-6
This is, in my opinion, the best overall cruising guide to the San Juan Islands.  Each island is featured/described by circumnavigation.  Virtually every cove and bay is described in some detail, and valuable information as to the suitability of anchorages is included for each.  What is best about this book (in my opinion) are the in-depth historical and human-interest stories therein.  There are countless stories and old photographs that bring the history and humanity of the islands alive. It does not have the waypoint listings or route planning of Exploring the San Juan and Gulf Islands, but that book doesn’t have the in-depth aspects that Gunkholing does.  I think that the two are complimentary, and I recommend both.  Highly recommended!

Mueller, Marge & Ted.  Afoot and Afloat : The San Juan Islands Fourth Edition.  Seattle: Mountaineer Books.  2003.  ISBN: 0-89886-881-5
I love this book, as it does what almost no other book on this list has–it includes land-based exploration as well as waterborne activities.  Too many visitors don’t step off their boats save for showers and meals when some of the best this region has to offer is on land.  It has some nice information on the geology and natural history of the region, and includes many trail maps and photographs.  It also has sound information on anchorages.  Highly recommended for those who like to go ashore/ are interested in natural history/scenery.

Yeadon-Jones, Anne & Laurence.  Dreamspeaker Cruising Guide,Vol. 4 - The San Juan Islands. Vancouver: Raincoast Books.  ISBN: 1-932310-16-9
This book is brand new, and is just now starting to ship, so I cannot say too much aside from the fact that I fell in love with all of their previous books to date.  The format for these books is a combination of great written descriptions, beautiful photographs (almost coffee table book style), and wonderful and whimsical sketches of each anchorage featured. The sketches are what I like best.  They are artful, but also very informative and detailed. They throw in some aerial photographs here and there, and these are very helpful for understanding the land and water features.  If this new San Juan book is anything like their others, it won’t have every anchorage–just the best ones!  I intend to meet the authors and look at this book this coming Saturday. I will post a separate message with my review.

Cruising Guides, Canadian Gulf Islands specific:

*Yeadon-Jones, Anne & Laurence.  Dreamspeaker  Cruising Guide, Vol. 1 - Gulf Islands & Vancouver Island: Victoria & Sooke to Nanaimo. Vancouver: Raincoast Books.  1998.  ISBN: 1-55192-150-2
This is the first in the ‘Dreamspeaker’ series, and is one of my favorite Gulf Islands guides.  It does not cover every anchorage or harbor, but rather is selective in portraying the authors’ favorites (which happen to be some of the best!).  Again, it is the combination of beautiful photographs and whimsical, but informative drawings that make this book so appealing.  I only wish that nautical charts were as much fun to view as the sketches herein!  Highly recommended!

Mueller, Marge & Ted.  British Columbia’s Gulf Islands, afoot and afloat.  Seattle: Mountaineer Books.  2000, revised 2004.  ISBN: 0-89886-881-5
This is the companion book to the Mueller’s San Juans Afoot and Afloat.  I like the series for its focus on natural history, parks, and shore-side activities.  I have found many of my favorite sites using this book. Highly recommended for those who like to go ashore/ are interested in natural history/scenery.

Wolferstan, Bill.  Cruising Guide to British Columbia Vol. 1-Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island from Sooke to Courtenay.  Vancouver/Toronto: Whitecap Books.  1987 with revisions 2001.  
ISBN: 0-921061-10-2
This was the cruising guide to the Gulf Islands for many years.  It is still useful and packed with interesting information.  The photos are woefully out of date (some areas are almost unrecognisable now due to the rapid development of the past decade or so).  It does have some great historical background that is lacking in other books.  I still like it, but I hope it gets updated soon.

BC Marine Parks Guide: The official Guide to BC’s Coastal Marine Parks.  Vancouver: OP Publishing, Ltd.  2005. ISBN: 1-896373-72-0
Lists, describes, and photographs all of the BC Marine Parks, including the 19 parks in the Southern Gulf Islands alone! Also offers anchoring tips where appropriate.

Land Maps, San Juan Islands:

*Washington State’s San Juan Islands Recreation Finder Map and Guide.  Bellevue: Great Pacific Recreation & Travel maps.  ISBN: 0-938011-24-3
This is a fantastic map, and I find it indispensable when journeying ashore.  Includes listings and markers for everything from historic buildings and restaurants to farmer’s markets and medical facilities.  Also depicts elevation contours by color–a feature I find helpful for both hiking and navigational sightings.  Highly recommended!

Land Maps, Canadian Gulf Islands:

*Gulf Islands, Scale 1:60,000cm, waterproof third edition.  Vancouver: International Travel Maps.  ISBN: 189590712-8
A good land map of the Gulf Islands.  Not nearly as detailed in listings as the one for the San Juans above, but a very good map nonetheless.  Clearly identifies shore-side parks and some hiking trails.  Recommended if you will be continuing on to Canada, and plan to go ashore.


Pacific Northwest Marine Weather Guides:

Lange, Owen S.  The Wind Came All Ways: A quest to understand the winds, waves, and weather in the Georgia Basin.  Vancouver: Environment Canada.  (in US: Distributed by: Seattle, PMB 620)  ISBN: 0-660-17517-7
This is a fascinating and well written introduction to the weather systems of the specific region encompassing the San Juan and Gulf Islands.  I particularly like the way in which the author identifies the most likely weather patterns by season and specific area.  Very useful for planning/cruising in this particular area.  Highly recommended if you are interested in weather.

Renner, Jeff.  Northwest Marine Weather: From the Columbia River to Cape Scott, Including Puget Sound, the San Juan and Gulf Islands, and the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Georgia, Johnstone, and Queen Charlotte.  Seattle: The Mountaineers.  1993.  ISBN: 0-89886-376-7
Another great weather book.  A really good primer on marine weather theory, observation, and forecasting.  Some very good general patterns are identified for the San Juans and Gulf Island regions.  Highly recommended if you are curious about the formation and behavior of marine weather patterns in general.


Marine Weather Hazards Manual: West Coast--a guide to local forecasts and conditions, 3rd edition.  Vancouver: Environment Canada. (in US: Distributed by: Seattle, PMB 620)  ISBN: 0-660-17774-9
Yet another useful treatise on region-specific weather.  Some good statistics on seasonal wind by region.  Short, and not as comprehensive as the two above books, but strong in the information it does provide.  Probably a bit redundant to the two above.

Nature Guides, Marine Fauna:

Yates, Steve.  Marine Wildlife: From Puget Sound Through the Inside Passage.  Seattle: Sasquatch Books.  1988,1998.  ISBN: 1-57061-158-0
This is a beautifully done and comprehensive guide to all the varied  forms of marine wildlife found in this region, including marine mammals, birds, fishes, invertebrates, and seaweed!  The drawings are black and white, but are of excellent quality.  We have had great fun identifying new creatures with this book!  Highly recommended if you are at all curious about nature!

Eder, Tamara with Sheldon, Ian.  Whales and other Marine Mammals of British Columbia and Alaska.  Renton, WA: Lone Pine Publishing.  2001.  ISBN: 1-55105-268-7
The best guide to whales and other marine mammals I have seen.  Each mammal gets its own section with beautiful colored drawings, descriptions, size comparisons to humans (graphical), and a map showing the range of the animal in question. Highly recommended, as whales, seals, and otters are very prevalent throughout our intended cruising waters, and this is the best book yet for identifying the various species!

 Nature Guides, Flora:

Varner, Collin.  Plants of the Gulf and San Juan Islands and Southern Vancouver Island.  Vancouver: Raincoast Pocket Guides. (In US: Berkeley, CA: Publishers Group West).  2002.  
ISBN: 1-55192-604-0
The very best small guide I have found for plants and trees of this region.  I find that since this book is specific to this very region, I do not have to wade through and reject non-applicable choices when trying to identify a plant.  Gorgeous photos and good descriptions.  Highly recommended for nature-appreciators!

Watts, Tom.  Pacific Coast Tree Finder.  Rochester: Nature Study Guild.  1973. 
ISBN: 0-912550-06-6
This is a tiny, inexpensive book that makes tree identification a kind of fun game.  By way of flow charts (do the leaves look like this?–if so go to page 12...), you can figure out the exact species of virtually any Pacific Coast tree.  Highly recommended for true tree lovers!

Keator, Glenn and Heady, Ruth.  Pacific Coast Fern Finder.  Rochester: Nature Study Guild.  1978
ISBN: 0-912550-13-9
Same as the above, but for Pacific Coast ferns.  Fun!

Keator, Glenn.  Pacific Coast Berry Finder.  Rochester: Nature Study Guild.  1978
ISBN: 0-912550-02-3
Same as above, but for berries.  In my mind, there is nothing better than picking/eating fresh berries.  This book helps you identify what you are eating!

Electronics:

VHF:

Icom M2A Handheld VHF:
This is my favorite handheld VHF (and one of the most reasonable).  Per my comments above, I prefer this to other models because of its ability to use standard ‘AA’ alkaline batteries in addition to the provided Ni-Cads.  I have used the M2A’s predecessor (the M3A) for about seven years, and have been very pleased with its performance.  The M2A is improved, and is now submersible.

Icom CP-17L Cigarette Lighter Cord cable w/Noise Filter (For M2A)
this allows for powering of the above M2A from a standard cigarette lighter/outlet.  If you have a 12v system installed, this will allow use of radio without drawing down the radio’s internal batteries.

Icom OPC-515L DC Power Cable (for use with the battery charger)
This accessory allows for charging of the standard Ni-Cad M2A battery via a cigarette lighter outlet.

FRS:
As mentioned  above, the use of FRS radios (in lieu of VHF) might prove a more convenient and less risky (at least for those continuing to Canada without station licenses/restricted operator’s permits) means of group communication.  At a minimum, they are easier to use, and less restrictive in that they can be used on land and water (VHF use is prohibited on land).

Icom IC-4088A FRS Radio
If you are looking for a higher quality FRS radio, this is one of the better ones out there.  I have two of the previous model, and they have performed flawlessly in spite of many years of hard use.  Powered by (3) ‘AA’ Alkaline batteries, and very tiny!

Icom CP-18A Cigarette Lighter Cable (6V DC, 2A output from 12V cigarette lighter socket with internal DC-DC converter).
This accessory allows 12V operation to preserve internal batteries.

Note:  If you don’t anticipate much future use beyond this trip, there are numerous cheaper radios available that should do just fine.  I was in a store the other day that was selling twin-pack Motorola FRS radios that looked decent for about $49.00.  More expensive FRS models do not have more power or range, but do have more features.

While I was advising against GMRS band radios for purposes of this trip (due to the fact that  a license is required, and in light of the license issues mentioned near the start of this document).  You might find that the GMRS radios are better suited to your overall/future needs.  You might want to make some calls and find out exactly what restrictions would apply  if you crossed into Canada .  If you already have one, there should be several channels that  share frequencies with FRS, and it should work for purpose of this trip.
  

Electronic Charting:
Here are the appropriate chart cartridges and chart CD’s that fit the most popular of the Chartplotters and mapping GPS units.  If you have a unit that takes a cartridge (instead of uploading from PC/CD), make sure to verify the exact format of chip/card your model will accept.  There are differences even within one manufacturer’s offerings (for example, Navioncs sells Compact Flash, Multi-Media, and NavChart formats).  Also, some older plotters cannot accept the most recent versions of the software--even if the physical form factor of the card is the same.  Waypoint is very knowledgeable about all of these issues.  Ask questions before ordering, as once a card is burned, you are generally stuck with it.

C-MAP (NT+):
M-NA-C621.07

Navionics (Gold):
2G913XL3

Navionics (Classic):
CA913XL3

Garmin Blue Chart (pre-programmed cartridge):
MCA500L (Olympia and north)
MCA001R (mid strait Juan de Fuca and north)

Garmin Blue Chart (CD):
MCA500L (Olympia and north)
MCA001R (mid strait Juan de Fuca and north)

 Handheld Depth Sounders:
As mentioned above, I highly recommend a handheld depth sounder if you do not already  have a fixed sounder installed.

Speedmate SM-5 Depthmate Portable Sounder
Hondex PS-7 Portable Depth Sounder
Plastimo 38074 - Echotest II Handheld depth sounder
These are the same exact model marketed by different companies.  My Depthmate (which has a ‘Hondex’ Label) has worked perfectly for 8 years.

Norcross DF 2200PX Handheld Depthfinder
While clearly of different manufacture than the three above, this unit appears to have similar function and specifications.  West Marine now stocks this model.  I cannot comment on the quality/longevity of this particular unit, as I have not used one.

Navigation Tools:

Plastimo 23488 - Iris 100 compass, blue, with lighting - ZONE A
Plastimo 25491 - Iris 100 compass, yellow, with lighting - ZONE A
This is my favorite dual-purpose compass.  These are available with/without lighting.  If you want a model with lighting (part numbers above), make sure to request this specifically.   West and some other retailers do not carry the lighted version.  Make sure and verify the ‘ZONE.’ Zone ‘A’ should be the appropriate choice for this region and the rest of the contiguous US.

parallel rules

dividers

waterproof chart cover with zipper
Heavy Duty, and large enough for Canadian 3313 Chart (18” x 24”)

‘Necessary’ List:

1. **Maptech Waterproof Chartbook: San Juan Islands (ISBN 0743608844-5)

2. **Canadian Hydrographic Service Chart #3313 (Small-Craft Chart Book)

3. **Current Atlas/Atlas des Courants: Juan de Fuca Strait to/a Strait of Georgia, Canadian 	Hydrographic Service

4. **Washburne, Randel. Wahsburne’s Tables 2005. Bellevue: Weatherly Press/Robert Hale & Co. (published annually).  ISSN: 1072-317X
 
5. **Canadian Tide and Current Tables: Juan de Fuca Strait and Strait of Georgia, Volume 5, 2005, Canadian Hydrographic Service


‘Recommended’ List (in addition to ‘Necessary’ above):

1.*NOAA Chart #18421 Strait of Juan de Fuca to Strait of Georgia; Drayton Harbor (1:80,000)

2.*Canadian Hydrographic Chart #LC 3462 (1:80,000cm)

3.*Office of Coast Survey: Chart #1: Nautical Chart Symbols, Abbreviations and Terms
4.*Canadian Hydrographic Service Chart #1: Symbols, Abbreviations, Terms, 2004 Edition

5.*Hale, Robert.  Weatherly Waypoint Guide, Volume 1: Puget Sound, San Juan Islands, Strait of Juan de Fuca.  Bellevue: Weatherly Press/Robert Hale & Co.  ISBN: 0-935727-16-7

6.*Hale, Robert.  Weatherly Waypoint Guide, Volume 2: Gulf of Georgia.  Bellevue: Weatherly Press/Robert Hale & Co.  ISBN: 0-935727-10-8

7.*Douglass, Don & Hemingway-Douglass, Réanne.  Exploring the San Juan and Gulf Islands: Cruising Paradise of the Pacific Northwest. 2nd Edition  Anacortes: Fine Edge.  2003. ISBN: 1-932310-00-2

8.*2005 Waggoner Cruising Guide.  Bellevue: Weatherly Press/Robert Hale & Co. (published annually) ISBN: 0-935727-23-X

9.*Baily, Jo and Nyberg, Carl.  Gunkholing in the San Juan Islands: A comprehensive Guide Encompassing Deception Pass to the Canadian Boundary.  Seattle: San Juan Enterprises.  2000.  ISBN: 0-944257-04-6

10.*Yeadon-Jones, Anne & Laurence.  Dreamspeaker  Cruising Guide, Vol. 1 - Gulf Islands & Vancouver Island: Victoria & Sooke to Nanaimo. Vancouver: Raincoast Books.  1998.  ISBN: 1-55192-150-2

Well, that’s about it for now.  Again, I have probably neglected some important items or information, so use this only as a suggested guideline for your own research/lists.

If you have any questions regarding the above, please contact me.

Fair Winds!

Scott


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